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news of the day…
Maison Albert Bichot’s forecast seems a little glum(?) I also bring you the curious tale of underwater storage….
spotted in vosne, and…
I spotted this while taking a tour around Vosne the other week. It seems that (Château!) Domaine de Eugenie are not just increasing the prices for their wines, they are actually spending some money on facilities and updating them too! I know the owner of the building in the picture, so asked what was happening, but apparently no contracts are currently signed, so I won’t say who is selling the facility and why – not yet anyway Also I found an engrossing story about a couple (He Japanese, She Korean) making their life as producers of Burgundy. I love this quote – sums it up for me too: The couple say they want to make wine that makes you wonder what the next glass will [....]
jadot 2004 vosne-romanée
If I didn’t get on all that well with the 06 Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay, this is much more interesting. It’s actually about 20% more expensive than my highly rated Mugneret-Gibourg or Albert Bichot 04 Vosnes and both of those offer a more compelling current drinking experience – it won’t be everyone’s choice, but I found it really interesting. 2004 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée Medium ruby-red colour – already showing some older colour. The nose initially has none of the green 04-ness, though a little develops over-time, it is, however, on such a low level that it really is additive and makes from cedar at the top, down to its creamy edge at the bottom, with faint clove in the middle – a rather superior if not textbook [....]
“wine is expensive and old fashioned”
Decanter are reporting that the youth of France are forming a disdainful view of their country’s vinous heritage: ‘Certainly the French youth are drinking less than their parents, but overall they still consume more wine than their American counterparts.’ It seems that price hikes, coupled to the efforts of the anti-alcohol lobby are having their effects…
2006 jadot bourgogne chardonnay
A wine that shows the difficulty of those that picked just a little later in this vintage – given the size of this cuvée, it would be no surprise if a significant proportion of the mix was picked just a little later than optimum. I note that the price is also up 20% versus the excellent 2004 and 2005 versions, both of which became ‘house wines’ chez moi. 2006 Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Chardonnay Medium yellow. The nose shows faint bready notes over equally faint pear fruit. Quite full in the mouth, also quite dense. Whilst your mouth slowly waters after you swallow, it still seems to lack a little freshness. A reasonable finish, but just a little too clumsy and heavy… Rebuy – No
bouchard père 2004 beaune 1er du château
2004 Bouchard P&F, Beaune 1er du Chateau Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and oaky; dark, sweet oak rather than overt toast and there’s not a trace of vintage cedar. In the mouth it is similarly dominated by the oak. Certainly there is decent, sweet intensity behind the wood and a more than lingering finish – it really is very long – but frankly on day one, whilst it’s a tasty oak beverage, I can find little to suggest Burgundy, let-alone Beaune! This is usually one of the best value cuvées you can buy from any négoce so I gave it a chance: Day 2. The nose remains deep, a little musky – not so much oak but still hard to spot the fruit [....]
fancy investing in burgundy? “forget it,”
A quote from a piece by Andrew Jefford from this weeks (London) Finiancial Times. “Burgundy is just 4 per cent of our turnover,” says Stephen Browett of Farr Vintners, the wine world’s leading broker and often first call for those wishing to invest. “We sell more champagne than burgundy.” Interesting stuff. Full article here.
guy amiot et fils 2005 chassagne-montrachet vv rouge
Found in Leclerc supermarket in Beaune – was relatively cheap, but how much(?), I don’t remember… 2005 Guy Amiot, Chassagne-Montrachet (Rouge) Vielles Vignes For the vintage it’s a modestly coloured medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose has some depth, and pulls you in with faint toasted bread and bouquet garni. Intense, with slightly grainy tannin and with good understated acidity followed by another dimension of dark fruit and a little oak on the mid-palate. The finish is savoury with a long undertow of creamy dark fruit. If not totally sophisticated it balances with real personality. This is a wine that delivers on both personality and value. It’s really rather good. Rebuy – Yes
reading material
I must remember to update my list of books to read – this seems a good start. Photo: Tony Cenicola/The New York Times Also, here’s a nice article including the late Robert Mondavi and 100 year-old burgundy.
burgundy…
There’s an old saying that goes something like: Opinions are like ********* – everyone has one! Well when it comes to burgundy, here are my standbys: What YOU like is what you like Be Curious Avoid Artifice – i.e. too much of anything, e.g. oak, ripeness, concentration, dilution etc…. Enjoyment is 90% about timing I thought this note might be about ’10 Burgundy commandments’ but I ran out after 4 – though I thought it was a good 4! Certainly ‘commandments’ is anyway the wrong word, but any more ideas from the stalls?
