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sugar, sugar (honey, honey)…
“it’s unlikely that we’ll hear Mary Poppins singing about the merits of a spoonful of acid” From SFGate
austere?
What about austere? For me, austere can mean a wine with a lot of structure or very strict demenour – never with the ‘padding’ of ultra-ripe fruit. A wine that is ‘less ripe’ is defined by less ripe than what? But austere is not necessarily the same as unbalanced – but certainly can be if we discuss the young 1998 burgundies. Note that 98 burgundies were very austere and you could justly say unbalanced when their young and very astringent tannins dominated, but those tannins have significantly melted leaving (usually) nice wines. Pierre was correct in 2000, but in 2008 he would be dead wrong, it just depends on the choice of drinking window you comment on, plus he did like really ripe fruit didn’t [....]
d’ardhuy’s pommard 1er fremiers – 2005
2005 d’Ardhuy, Pommard 1er Fremiers Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is pregnant with dark oak and soft spice, quite sweet but avoiding toast and only hinting at vanilla – all this covering black cherry and berry notes. The palate is concentrated without fat, intense in the mid-palate, and with acidity that pushes the finish quite some way. The fruit has dark oaky elements for the first minutes, but the tannins are completely buried. I’d leave this a couple of years to lessen the oak-derived aromas, but it is a medium-weight, complex and rather cultured Pommard. Rebuy – Yes
louis carillon’s pitangerets 2004
Guess why I bought this – correct – because I’d never heard of the 1er cru and thought ‘let’s have a look’. Even after I found out it was red, I still thought ‘why not?’ 2004 Louis Carillon et Fils, St.Aubin 1er Les Pitangerets Medium ruby red, already a little development at the rim. The nose starts a little like roast red tarts with an overlay of herbal, slightly cedarish notes. In the mouth there’s nice enough texture but the tannins coupled with the acidity will certainly make your mouth pucker – it’s an interesting contrast to the ripe fruit. A nice middle-weight wine with food, but more challenging without. I’m not unhappy to have drunk my first Pitangerets, though I’m not straining at the [....]
hallo wien
No, not a reference to Freddy Kruger! Our weekend was spent in splendid spring sunshine (in February!) in Vienna. Friday evening was kicked off in style; 1996 Dom Ruinart followed by 3 2005 Puligny ‘Folatières’ before the main event of 20 2005 grand crus from Gevrey-Chambertin – a mouth-watering selection of Chambertin, Bèze and other grand crus. Actually 25 bottles were consumed by the modest group, together with accomplished cooking and excellent service – I must admit one down-side; I felt rather ‘slow’ on Saturday morning… I’ll make a full report in the Spring burgundy report, but opened at 4pm then decanted just before serving (they were all blind) between 8pm and 12pm – all were open, and all but one showed well. Second-guessing the [....]
georges mugneret – fading green gevrey
Note the subtle change to Domaine Georges Mugneret – no more the Dr. Georges. There was a a big dose of the ’04 greenery’ in this first wine 14 months ago – even seeping into the flavours. I can see a considerable improvement now, so the remaining 4 bottles can safely rest for a few years. The 2004 is the riper and friendlier, but the 2005 is the better wine – or will be eventually. I look forward to comparing it to the very good 2002 in another 8+ years! 2004 Georges Mugneret, Gevrey-Chambertin Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a waft of dark oak that is slowly replaced by cedar. It’s a short peak of green that slowly, but never completely subsides, filling [....]
the last 3 wines from 13 lats week (part 4)
2005 Albert Bichot, Grands-Echézeaux I drank this (the vines of and tended by Philippe Engel) out of sequence as I really wanted the comparison with the Griotte. The vanilla-style sweet oak is still too much to the fore, this is a wall of almost overpowering aromas – it’s certainly not shy. The palate is balanced, initially with a hint of carbon dioxide and incredibly wide and long – by far the most impressive wine of the night in this respect. This wine needs at least 2 years to lose the facile, sweet oak – but afterwards, it will be a stunner! Rebuy – Yes 2004 Jacky Truchot, Chambolle 1er Les Sentiers Medium colour. Lots of dirty, toasty oak and burnt match to start with – [....]
3 wines from 13 last week (part 3)
1999 Véronique Drouhin, Vosne 1er Petits Monts An understated nose that slowly builds power in the glass – exotic hardwoods and faint chocolate mix to give a very complex impression. The palate is relatively tight, the faintly astringent tannin being well covered by the understated fruit – the length of finish is rather more distinguished. Despite the tight presentation there is good focus here – better than the last bottle. Rebuy – Yes 2001 Fourrier, Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacques A lovely fine and elegant nose of quite some complexity – red fruits and earth. The palate is long, faintly mineral and very wide in the mid-palate and into the finish. Perhaps a little unruly – let’s say over-exuberant as it finishes but much complexity here [....]
3 wines from 13 last week (part 2)
1993 Esmonin Père et Fils, Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacques Medium colour. The nose is rather mature and quite ripe with an undertow of undergrowth and eventually chocolate. After the last 1993 this is fuller and riper with apparently lower acidity. There is a medium-plus length of finish and very understated structure. I would characterise this as a very friendly and ‘cosy’ wine – particularly for a 93 – one to curl up with. Possibly not a wine for the ages but it’s coming into a nice drinking window now. Rebuy – Yes 1993 Dujac, Gevrey 1er Combottes Corked – damn, I was really looking forward to this comparison! 1998 Jean Chauvenet, Nuits St.Georges A relatively narrow and slightly volatile nose – some, though marginal, improvement [....]
grower interviews with jasper morris mw
Listen to Jasper Morris (MW) of UK merchant Berry Bros & Rudd as he works his way through visits with Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon (Dominique Lafon), Domaine du Comte Armand (Benjamin Leroux), Olivier Merlin, Patrick Javillier, the Bret Brothers, Patrice Rion, Domaine du Clos de Tart (Sylvain Pitiot) and Dujac Fils et Pere (Jacques Seysses). …Here…
4 wines of 13 from last week (part one)
Drunk in the comfy surroundings and simple but delicious food of ‘Hilliards‘ in London: 2001 Coche-Dury, Auxey-Duresses Medium-pale colour with a hint of amber at the rim. The nose is soft, with a suggestion of undergrowth and pretty violets. The palate is mineral yet soft, not so deep but a fine width and a savoury finish. An altogether lovely aperitif if you can get a good price. Rebuy – Yes 2004 Chevillon-Chezeaux, Nuits 1er Les Bousselots (Blanc) Medium yellow. The nose starts with a forward brioche note before fading into a good if simple ripe fruit effect. There is some fat, but this wine is defined by a lovely spine of acidity – it starts just a little prickly but quickly smooths. Unlike many heavy [....]
rounding up…
Seems a while – well I suppose it is – but here’s a round-up of the last days in London and thereabouts. Wednesday evening started with 13 burgundies – unlucky for us as it should have been 14 but we had a corked 1993 Dujac Gevrey Combottes – though 13 interesting wines from 14 is a very good start. Notes will come during this week as time allows Thursday was Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 tasting; always looked forward to and very well run by Corney & Barrow the UK agents. Dr Jamie Goode hung around long enough to swirl, spit and take some photos then triumphantly post his notes first from the assembled throng. Neal Martin and Linden Wilkie (my erstwhile lunch companions) took [....]
