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updated: gevrey-chambertin village profile
Following my profile of Gevrey-Chambertin in the Summer Report, there was a great request from a reader for more info about communal-level Gevrey-Chambertin. I’ve dug out a pile of info about the climats concerned – one of the best sources being Jacky Rigaux’s excellent book ‘Gevrey-Chambertin’ which I must make a short review of in these pages – and tried to include the names of some good producers to match, it’s added it to the profile – here…
bouchard père 1999 chambertin
An interesting counterpoint to the Faiveley – one might expect the Chambertin to need more time than a Corton, but producer style counts for much. Also opened and then poured 1 hour later: 1999 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chambertin Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose starts deep and wide – still primary – slowly providing a soft, savoury bacon-fat background. In the mouth this is intense, wide and mouth-filling. There is still plenty of tannin, faintly astringent and with a bitter chocolate edge that adds a little cream before going very long in the finish. There is a ton of structure here but it’s very well matched by the extract. Excellent, and wait a minute – hmm – I can still buy this cheaper than some ‘mid-range’ [....]
1999 clos des cortons faiveley
The first from a six-pack, opened one hour before pouring: 1999 Faiveley, Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Medium-plus ruby-red. Faint higher tones over mineral coated pure red cherry that plums a good depth if not much width – give it another hour and there’s a lovely piercing red note. In the mouth it starts narrow, slowly widening as it heads for the mid-palate. The acidity is forward and more than just a little tart but the tannins are well hidden. Everything remains tight going into the finish but I have to say there is a sneaky extra dimension of creamy flavour that expands further in the finish – certainly the most compelling part. Time gives a little more fat and interestingly a little more astringency [....]
today’s papers and counterfeit bottles (again)…
Cheap red Burgundy can be one of the most unpleasant of wine experiences (especially in a rain-sodden or chilly vintage) so avoid anything under £6. That’s a cheery thought – but read on. In my experience you can buy lovely bourgogne for under £6, but only direct from the domaine and only in ‘almost good’ or better vintages. If you don’t have the same buying chance, follow the advice of Rose! Worried about the provenance of your new acquisition? WineAuthentication.com exists because wine counterfeiting has become a greater and greater problem for buyers and sellers of wine. And just in case you ever craved a ‘wet lipstick kiss’ from Ann Colgin…
jc belland 1996 santenay 1er comme
The 1999 of this wine is drinking very well right now – so what about the 1996? 1996 Jean-Claude Belland, Santenay 1er La Comme Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts with a fine berry/raspberry note, set against a deeper brooding background – lovely – shame then that after 30 minutes you are left only with the brooding background! The palate itself is fresh and like very many of the lower appellation wines from this vintage, it is defined mainly by it’s acidity. Overall the tannin is hidden but the palate is linear and narrow, concentrated for all that but surprisingly primary. Length is almost good. Overall there is little here to suggest that it’s 11 years since the vintage. I wonder if/when it will ever [....]
2002 dugat-py gevrey coeur de roy
Interesting to let this wine follow the Fourrier. I expected to enjoy the Fourrier more from a style perspective, and this was partly borne out – but the Dugat-Py is actually no muscle-bound monster, nor does it wear an impenetrable suit of oak, it merely lost out because it went through so many phases in the glass, not all of them enjoyable. Overall it impresses but is much more primary (but then it’s also younger) than the Fourrier which today I prefer for it’s elegant, layered complexity – but who is to say that that will not come(?) It’s an easier decision when you factor in the price and realise that you can have 5 bottles of Fourrier for every 2 of the Dugat-Py… 2002 [....]
fourrier 99 gevrey-chambertin
1999 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille-Vigne Medium ruby-red. A nose that starts deep and surprisingly oaky given that there’s normally a maximum of 20% in this cellar – but it’s short-lived before fading into redder, layered fruit overlaid by higher toned alcoholic aspects, maybe even an edge of coffee. In the mouth it starts impressively; it’s well balanced, and shows a lovely, succulent, creamy red fruit. Time increases the depth but eventually dulls the excitement just a hint. It’s intense in the mid-palate and you never really think of the tannin before it slowly fades in the finish – still with that creamy edge. Poised, elegant and a first-class villages. Rebuy – Yes
98 daniel rion nuits les lavières
1998 Daniel Rion, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is deep with wider mineral notes, an edge of spice and just a little uncouth ‘lifted’ alcoholic top-notes. A little fat that overlays plenty of tannin – it’s quite fine though. Good depth and a good length. This is reminiscent more of 1997′s with a slight lack of freshness – though funnily most of Rion’s 97 are almost good. It’s okay but I wouldn’t buy more. Rebuy – No
varia
A surprisingly serious article – for a website – noting the ‘thriving English vineyards back in the 1200′s’.
drc – 2000 – romanée st.vivant
My birthday – so I pulled out a ‘decent’ bottle that I hoped might have just a hint of ‘willingness’. Decanted mainly because of the sediment and drunk over the following 2-3 hours. 2000 DRC, Romanée St.Vivant Medium, medium-plus colour – just a very faint edge of amber at the rim. The nose is a sniffer’s delight – though the stems are very forward – they overlay a deep and primary red-fruit nose that’s edged with softness and a faint, savoury, musky note. The more it develops in the glass the more savoury it becomes; the last drops showing an extra fineness. In the mouth the wine is clearly grand cru in texture though the concentration is not so up-front, it rather develops on the [....]
2005 dubreuil-fontaine, corton-perrières
Bought, it now seems, for a ‘song’ at en-primeur time at a mere 39 Swiss francs per… 2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Perrières Limpid medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts tight and unyielding. It slowly releases mocha/espresso high-notes and even over 2 hours remains stable without ever revealing more than a glimpse of fruit. The palate is lithe and athletic but with unforgiving concentration – there is much depth but this is clearly not a wine for today. The tannins are very well covered and the length is also quite espresso without ever becoming overly oaky. Not really all that closed, but an impressive and muscular wine that needs at least 5-10 years in the cellar. I think it will reward that wait Rebuy – Yes
a postcard from morey st.denis
Friday was picture-postcard perfect weather. At this time of year you finally get the mix of red and yellow leaves on the vines that delineate the vineyards so well – perhaps it will last as long as this pleasant 20° heat before the leaves will finally fall – it’s very pretty while it lasts. The late heat of this Indian Summer can be seen with renewed growth on many vines – new green shoots showing on the top of many. Tasting mainly 2006′s but a few early 2007′s for good measure too, we started our day in Fixin, had a short visit in Gevrey, moved to Morey for lunch, then there was Nuits before stopping just north of Ladoix and finally in Beaune. It wasn’t [....]
