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liger-belair 2004 vosne colombière

liger-belair 2004 vosne colombière

2004 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La Colombière Medium, Medium-pale colour. Aromatically more impressive than you expect from the colour, deep with a faint edge of coffee – only turning redder and finer with a little tobacco and spice as you slowly drain the glass – no green notes. Light but intense in the mouth – it’s the slightly bright acidity that adds to the apparent intensity. Red berry fruit that slowly fades, good, understated velvet tannins. It’s precocious though quite well balanced, I’d be tempted to drink this younger rather than older. Tasty. Rebuy – Maybe

harvest 2007 – ‘steady as she goes…’

harvest 2007 – ‘steady as she goes…’

From Berry Bros & Rudd website: “18, July. It’s all doom and gloom in the press at the moment with reports coming in thick and fast that there might not even be a harvest in Bordeaux or Burgundy. In actual fact, many vineyards are looking healthy and happy with a very early harvest predicted. This is in part thanks to a beautiful April which prompted early flowering, with the combination of rain and sun successfully managing to prolong the vines growth cycle. Dominique Lafon reports a little mildew in one vineyard, and localized hail damage has been reported in St Aubin, Beaune and Chablis, but there has been nothing too dramatic thus far and the general outlook is good. This may in part be due [....]

kellen lignier’s story

Here The newly married Kellen Lignier was bored in her new life, since she didn’t know the language and hadn’t yet made friends in France. So she began working alongside her husband in the vineyards. That wasn’t always smiled upon, Lignier said. “A woman’s job was to provide heirs,” she said. “Or if they wanted to work in the office, that was free labor. Some people even believe that a woman can cause a wine to go bad.”

disney drop the rat wine promotion

Did I say something about committment? LOS ANGELES, July 28 (UPI) — Walt Disney Co. has shelved its plan to offer U.S. wine and rodent lovers a “Ratatouille Chardonnay” in honor of the star of its latest movie. Costco was to carry bottles of French 2004 white Burgundy with labels featuring Remy, the haute-cuisine-loving rat in “Ratatouille,” The Los Angeles Times reported Saturday. The promotion was canceled amid criticism from California winemakers and opponents of underage drinking, Disney spokesman Gary Foster told the newspaper. “It was going to be a small offering” — 500 cases — “and we thought it would be best not to proceed with it,” he said. In a decision called unrelated, Disney announced last week its films, including long-released classics, no [....]

1997 grand crus – a selection

1997 grand crus – a selection

There were many more on display, but this is the modest list of grand crus tasted, the others (including La Tâche, de Vogüé Musigny etc.) were quaffed before I could get to them. 1997 Frédéric Magnien, Bonnes-Mares Oaky top notes underpinned by creamy deep fruit – quite fresh too – nice. The palate is very good, fresh and concentrated with some grainy tannin. Very good. Rebuy – Maybe 1997 de Vogüé, Bonnes-Mares A high-toned fresh nose with very precise fruit – rare in 1997. The palate also shows precise young fruit and is rather racy too. The tannins probably need at least another 5 years. Less friendly than the Magnien, but younger. Rebuy – Maybe 1997 AF Gros & François Parent, Richebourg The nose shows [....]

the wines of burgundy, hw yoxall (1968)

the wines of burgundy, hw yoxall (1968)

First published by The International Wine and Food Society (Pitman) in 1968, this copy is from the slightly updated 1978 second edition. Compared to the last book I posted on, by Philip Youngman Carter (1966), this 190-pager by Harry Waldo Yoxall is a little more studied and less spontaneously amusing, but Harry has his nicely self-deprecating moments and like Youngman Carter before, retains the BBC grammar of a bygone age. To balance, there is more depth and in some areas considerable insight. Harry certainly knew his stuff; he was a ‘Grand Officer de la Confrérie des Chevailiers du Tastevin’, chairman of the society responsible for publishing the book, and for 40 years was also the head of the London office of Vogue magazine and a [....]

discovering the mâconnais…

Like almost all white Burgundies, Mâconnais wines are made from chardonnay grapes. Yet their contrast with California chardonnays is extraordinary, and they serve as a delicious introduction to what makes white Burgundies distinct. Good article by Eric Asimov today in the New York Times

cheap as chips? 1875 romanée-conti (possibly)

cheap as chips? 1875 romanée-conti (possibly)

November 9, 1875. Indian Wars: In Washington, D.C., Indian Inspector E.C. Watkins issues a report stating that hundreds of Sioux and Cheyenne associated with Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse are hostile to the United States (the Battle of the Little Bighorn was fought in Montana the next year). That same year, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was quietly going about it’s business in the era where reports of phylloxera were finally being confirmed in the burgundian vineyards. Here is the quote from the Christies catalogue of last week: TWO RARE BOTTLES OF NINETEENTH CENTURY ROMANEE-CONTI Lying at Christie’s South Kensington Some years ago, Etablissements Nicolas sought to authenticate some old bottles of Romanee-Conti, resembling the bottles in this sale, which they had in their Paris cellars. [....]

1997 chambolles…

1997 chambolles…

The interesting thing about slowly writing up these 1997 notes, village by village, is that you notice that things get slowly better as you head further north. It was a rare red wine that stood out in the Côte de Beaune, but certainly more common as you head north. Shame then that I missed the wines of Morey and Gevrey – particularly Gevrey as the rest of the tasters found the Gevreys to be the outstanding village. There are the dregs of a few grand crus that will make the last instalment (probably) tomorrow. 1997 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets A high-toned, rather nice nose. The palate is understated, with faintly astringent tannin. Has good length though. Quite nice but not the full package. Rebuy [....]

2 good, 1 great: a trio of guyon chambolles

2 good, 1 great: a trio of guyon chambolles

Drunk over about 5 days…2001 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Medium ruby red. The nose starts with a little deep oak and mainly red shaded fruit – just a little heavy and cumbersome. Slowly the oak fades (about 90% gone) and the impression becomes more high-toned and just a little more refined – by day two it’s quite fine. The palate is quite concentrated and dense with lightly grained tannin and just a hint of bitterness – but this seems derived from the faint toasty oak. The finish is faint but long. Overall this is no shrinking violet, rather a relatively powerful wine that could do with a little more delicacy. Certainly has a long life ahead. Rebuy – Maybe 2002 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Medium, medium-plus core [....]

varia

A few nice pieces found today: Alice on soft openings and pizza… Bill on Beaujolais Sluggish Fermentations? Maybe it’s your soil

97 nuits and vosne

1997 Robert Chevillon, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vaucrains Plenty of oak still on a nose that narrowly avoids reduction. Where the aromatics don’t involve, the palate delivers more; good dimension set against a furry tannin. Overall this is almost good but no more. Rebuy – No 1997 Jean Tardy, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Boudots The nose has the 97 sweetness though unusually it’s coupled with a rather herby presentation but nice high-toned red fruits too. Actually quite appealing. The palate was grainy and red – I didn’t really think of much more to say… Rebuy – No 1997 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée It’s a nice nose of dark fruit, ripe, but not overly so. The palate has real depth, length and good balance too. I rather [....]

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