three christmas wines (fevre m-gibourg mugnier)

Christmas lunch was a long, leisurely affair. First we took the 2002 Fevre Chablis Bougros as an aperitif, then with food took two Piesporter Goldtropfchens – a 2004 and a 2003 from St.Urbans-Hof – then a couple of new reds:
2002 William Fevre, Chablis Bougros
Pale golden. The nose is a pungent mix of faint shoreline notes and heavy, lime-inflected fruit. Super minerality and intensity coupled to really good length. This seems much tighter than the last bottles – must be time to think about laying down for the future. An impressive bottle still.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 Mugneret-Gibourg, Echezeaux
Medium-plus cherry red colour. The nose shouts red berries, starting in a very soft, powdery red fruit way. Time adds faint cedar and a kind of wet-metal note. Very understated entry, instantly giving the impression of a nice ride along the acidity before moving into a very, very long finish – that was impressive! The mid-palate has a small burst of interest, but this wine remains very understated – not aloof – just very understated and very well made.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 JF Mugnier, Musigny
The colour is medium-plus red, but halfway between ruby and cherry – already starting to lose some that youthfull robe. The nose starts deep and complex with a strong cedar note at the top, and all-spice below. It takes quite some time to open out into a more fruit dimension – mainly a redcurrant note that develops a baked tart effect. The palate has perfect texture – ultra-smooth – and excellent acidity. Really exceptional length, though currently edged with some faintly bitter oak tannin. Interestingly the cedar of the nose is mirrored on the palate. Just a little more intense than the Echezeaux, but I find that cedar note intrusive. Lots of positive aspects, but a wine that is less ‘together’ than the Mugneret-Gibourg today. Take an overnight rest in the refridgerator and the last glass has a more floral nose and the palate is more ‘together’ – still a little cedar though. 5 more lay in the cellar for the long-term.
Rebuy – Maybe