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françoise & denis clair, saint aubin 2004
These producers have invested in a very nice new ‘livery’ for their 2004′s – much more elegant than their niaive predecessors. 2004 F & D Clair, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents de ChienMedium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and a nice flow into the good finish. Again there’s a slightly savoury element to the palate too. Plenty of flesh here, rather than the taught, haughty aspect of many in 2004. Easy and tasty drinking – very good value at it’s pre-arrival price. Rebuy – Yes
hotels and wine – a surprise
Tonight I deserve to eat and drink badly (actually I tend not to drink badly – I prefer to abstain!); I’m alone in a hotel and a colleague has given me the name of two good restaurants – the thing is (without a driver) I’m far too lazy to arrange taxis in each direction – that’s my main excuse, though the fact-is, I have more than enough work to do to fill each waking hour. So it’s time to take my ‘medicine’ and accept what the hotel is serving up! My experience leads me to believe that hotels are (typically) worse than restaurants when it comes to wine. Middle-ranking restaurants often have wine sourced from one supplier – and usually very bad value wine at [....]
pommard #18
Just to keep you on your toes, I though I should try and slip through another Pommard. Very good it was too! 2003 Louis Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Croix NoiresMedium-plus cherry-red. The nose is wide, eventually high-toned, complex and interesting – provided you keep it cool, otherwise it (like many 2003′s) becomes quite diffuse. Very well textured – there’s a lot of tannin, but it’s very well done, and very well covered. There was obviously plenty of oak at release, but there has been a very quick take-up and this is rather well made and impressive – a modern vernacular for sure, but very well done. Impressive juice! Rebuy – Yes Seems ‘the pour’ is still in Burgundy – this time enjoying ‘lunch‘
pierre gelin fixin clos napoleon 98
The last time I had one of these was at least 3 or 4 years ago, and probably a 1996 – but I do remember liking the wine! In September I took a ‘flyer’ and managed to land a reasonably priced case at auction; here’s the chance to see what kind of mistake I made! 1998 Pierre Gelin, Fixin 1er Clos Napoleon Medium ruby-red colour. The nose starts very subdued, only slowly starts to take on a more tertiary, slightly alcoholic edge – eventually becomes quite interesting. The palate is well textured with super acidity and impressive mid-palate concentration – if it had any astringent tannin in its youth then it’s already melted. It’s ready now and I’m sure it will hold for a few [....]
clos frantin vosne malconsorts 03
2003 Domaine du Clos Frantin, Vosne-Romanée 1er Malconsorts Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A deeply ripe red-fruit nose; it flirts with being porty but just-about avoids this tragedy – though I’m concerned that with time it might fall from the tightrope it currently walks. The palate is soft and concentrated with a burst of tannin in the mid-palate, the finish slowly fades. The concentration and extract are self-evident and are well-judged, but it’s hard to find the complexity given the density of its current demenour. Clean and well made, one more stays in the cellar to see how this develops – clearly a 2003. Rebuy – Maybe
antonin guyon 2002 aloxe
2002 Antonin Guyon, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Fournières A good medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts full of minerals and sweet red cherry, slowly becomes a little higher-toned and diffuse, the remaining drops in the glass, however, have a quite lovely smell. The palate is quite intense and pure – red-fruity – quite fresh too. The tannins are quite mouth puckering and astringent, but you don’t notice so-much with food. This will probably always be a little acid-forward, but there’s plenty-enough fruit to wait 2-3 years for the tannin to melt a little. Rebuy – Maybe
christies change gear for the hospices de beaune
It seemed to me that in 2005 the selling ‘machine’ of Christies (at theit first attempt) did not really get into full gear for the sale of the 2005′s; prices were average and the wines should be excellent – perhaps Christies needed to get into the swing of things. This year, for the 2006′s, the reds will (typically) be inferior to 2005 – note that I don’t say bad, just not as good – and the whites will simply be a different style, very good, but not necessarily ‘better’ than either 2004 or 2005. Despite this, the prices for the whites reached amazing heights vs the last two years and the reds were ‘in-line’ with the prices for 2005. Two things to say: first, the [....]
cold-calling winesales
Something very strange happened last night – or unusual at-least. At ~7:30pm the phone rang; “it’s xyz-merchant in Germany, remember you bought a bottle of ‘xxx’ from us – I just wondered how it was?” Then through a serpentine road of compliments, brown nosing, dropping references to various producers he/they represent, he finally tried (manfully) to sell me some Pommard from Jean Chartron. Apparently it was a fantastic price at only 19.95 euros, but we never got onto the vintage because he didn’t know the lieu-dit (or dits). If someone wants to sell me something, they should at least know something about what they’re selling. I was never cold-called to buy wine before – maybe I led a sheltered life!
the bad and the good – chassagne
Two wines – both from Marc Morey. A 2001 that started very subdued and not so interesting, but ended up rather nice – however, I shall start with a worrying ‘turkey’: 2002 Marc Morey, Chassagne 1er MorgeotMedium-plus golden – certainly a worrying colour for one so young. The nose confirms quite a high level of oxidation. For me (with a significant dislike of oxidation) this was barely drinkable. If you have this wine check it now – urgently! Rebuy – No A much better wine (without doubt) follows, but given the above I wouldn’t buy any, even though (based on the bottle) I say “rebuy – yes“! In-fact I’ve had quite a bit of bad luck from this producer in the last 6 weeks – [....]
the bad and the good – 2004
[Pommard-free posting!] Here in two bottles you can see the two faces of the 2004 vintage in the Côte de Nuits. It’s a rather extreme difference given that the bottles come from the same cellar, and slightly disappointng given that I still have 5 of each in my cellar, but I’m in no rush and perhaps there be some slow improvement! 2004 M & P Rion, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Argillières Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose has a pure and bright red-fruit core but has a rather green-pea malolactic style edge – though of quite some depth. The palate has medium depth, good tart acidity and a creamy, deep oaky, though with a rather dry tannic depth – but seems to need an extra dose [....]
pommard #17
Okay, okay! It’s the last pommard for a few days – though I might try and sneak another past you next week 1995 Pousse d’Or, Pommard 1er Les JarollièresMedium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. Bright, ripe red fruit – baked tarts – depth but limited width, the aromas are very persistent. Interesting, concentrated and ripe – there’s some complexity, but the fruit is quite dense, almost monolithic at the core. The length is very good and this is one very smooth wine. It needs plenty of time for complexity, but otherwise this is much more accomplished than the Rugiens. Rebuy – Yes There was a nice piece in ‘the pour’ yesterday, but I guarantee that photo was not taken this week !
pommard #16
Don’t worry – something without a pommard label will be appearing here soon! 1995 de Montille, Pommard 1er Cru Les RugiensMedium colour with just a hint of amber. This is a sniffer’s wine, subtle and complex – only slowly widening and becoming softer. This is also rather understated in the mouth; it has good freshness, nice transparency – again a subtle complexity – but you have to work hard to find all these elements. Long with a faint diminuendo. You would easily lose this in a large tasting. Rebuy – Yes
