magnum report pt.5 (last)

1999 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes
(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts very-much in a coffee/mocha vein, but bit-by-bit plums ever-more depth. Time takes the nose into a lovely core of tight, focused red fruit that eventually widens to give a redcurrant aspect – always my favourite. This has depth, intensity and an obvious extra level of tannin vs the older wines. A lovely wine. Rebuy – Yes
1999 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
(From magnum) Medium ruby-red colour. It’s a wide and mineral nose with an almost corky element. With time the corky element takes over – I never found it on the palate though – still, a shame.
1990 Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenots de Milieu
(From magnum) Very deep colour – close to black. No obvious oak on the nose, but it’s so dense and unforgiving – perhaps this is a harsh adjective, but this wine is so fresh, linear and dense that it could be 2002 in presentation. The only clue to its age, is that the tannins have started to melt, but super concentration remains – it’s a tour-de-force – but wait for 2015. If there is one criticism, the wine doesn’t seem so long and is unlikely to gain length with extra age – but I’m still very, very impressed. Versus the Clerget Chambolle this has twice the depth & concentration, but the Clerget is significantly more refined – the choice is yours. Rebuy – Yes