The first wine with a hint of reduction on the nose – slowly a little bread and ginger are released – though I’m not sure it’s ‘gingerbread’. Lithe and silky, this is another wine that fights with your palate trying to force you to swallow. Super finishing intensity. This is going very well!!
The nose is wide, faintly caramel and shows a certain sweetness. In the mouth this is full and round, it also shows quite some cushioning – initially the acidity seems almost borderline, certainly after the last bottles – yet alone this is a wine that won’t leave you unrefreshed. Some herbs in a finish that has a certain sweetness – not unlike the nose!
Medium yellow. The nose shows nice floral tones over the faint brioche. The palate shows well-textured concentration with the acidity just bubbling away under the surface before breaking through into the mid-palate. An interesting extra edge of flavour before (very) slowly fading into the finish. A fine example.
Golden, with just a little brown. Plenty of oxidative notes on the nose, wide, lanolin, toffeed. There is phase where this is like an old Graves, eventually becoming creamier, then sweet apple-skins and treacle tart before stabilising as tarte-tartin, the oxidative notes remain. Super acidity with mouthwatering length, the toffeed oxidation runs like a spine through the wine, but it never becomes sherryish, this wine is very-much alive. It’s a style that I don’t love yet I’m terribly impressed by, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and this wine improved for the whole of the 25 minutes it lasted in my glass.
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