Also aromatically dark, but wstill wider than the last – really impressive. A wide-angle panorama of flavours, mouth-filling, this is very lovely. There’s plenty of structure but there’s balance too. A little spice and licorice as you head into the finish. High class Marsannay.

Medium ruby colour. The nose is more like the 99 Roty bourgogne, a little estery and diffuse. This has a similar tartness to the fruit too, much less friendly than the Champs St.Etienne which at this stage I would certainly take ahead of this. Given about 1 hour from opening the texture improves, more fat and slightly less tart. Almost good concentration and some sweetness, but I’d still go for the St.Etienne.