Normal (classic) cuvée. The sauvage note is there, but it seems to diminish in the glass. Wide and interesting, the sweet fruit peaks in the mid-palate – tasty.
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
2009 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Cuvée en foule. The nose seems to offer up chalk and minerals – no sauvage. Fuller and more tannic than the basic cuvée there definitely seems more material in the glass. Again there is a peak of flavour in the mid-palate but this time with much more complexity. A bigger difference in the two wines in 09 versus 08.
2008 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
2008 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Cuvée ‘en foule’. Planted at 36,000 vines per hectare in 2002. This high-density planting returns about two bunches of fruit per vine. Also a little ‘sauvage’. Clearly we have more intensity and a mineral dimension to versus the ‘classic’. Nicely balanced – will surely become ever-more impressive as the vines age.
2007 Serveau Bernard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
2007 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
2002 Dugat-Py Bernard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Deep cherry-red. The nose shows a really intense redcurrant and cranberry note – very impressive – as I was expecting an attack of oak. The palate has structure, but the tannins are completely covered by the high-quality fruit. The level of extract is higher than some grand crus, what is missing in such a comparison is the complexity. For all that, this is a splendidly dense – but balanced – village wine, I’d be really interested to revisit this in 10 years to see what awaits. It’s only a shame that it costs more than many grand crus!