In this case, the VV designation means a minimum 20 years, and this 20,000 case cuvée is from grapes that are sourced only in the Côte d’Or. The nose majors on direct, slightly savoury fruit notes. Flavour fills the mouth, backed with good acidity and a fruity, savoury, slightly mineral finish. Nothing facile or ‘fruity, fruity’ – recommended

Just because a wine wears a generic label doesn’t mean that the approach needs to be similarly generic. This wine uses fruit only from the Côte d’Or – so no Maconaise or Chalonaise grapes – also, from its inception the aim was to make a food-friendly wine rather than a fruit-forward wine. The nose is nicely mineral and high-toned. Very 2005 in its richness and good texture, but the flavour profile is more savoury than the sweet, sweet, sweet vernacular of the vintage. The 20% oak used in its elevage can only be seen on the flavour of the finish. In terms of the team’s aim, I think this is a bulls-eye.