Medium-plus colour – still holding onto that cherry-red hue. The nose is deep with sweet, dark oak and just as dark cherry floating above. In the mouth there’s plenty of oak-derived sweetness, and it’s dark, well toasted oak that mirrors the nose – on the positive side, it’s so well done that I have no expectation that it will become ‘ashy’ with time. The mouth-feel is plush, and the acidity helps push the mid-palate’s burst of interest well into a long finish. Hedonistic, yet despite trying to discount my lack of favour for the style, I still can’t get over the fact that I feel the chambolle-ness has been lost. Expertly made, very tasty and I expect will have a good, long life. I only miss the sense of place, I suspect that others may disagree.
Serafin Père et Fils
2004 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus colour, only just retaining a hint of cherry-red colour. The nose starts with full-on oak toast which slowly, slowly recedes to reveal black-shaded cherry, faint coffee and even some higher floral notes. Good texture and an ever-increasing intensity as you head for the mid-palate – the acidity seems not perfectly integrated though. Long, with creamy elements. Overall it is rather too oaky for my palate (to enjoy) and there’s eventually a suggestion of ash on the nose, but it’s certainly a good effort with no green.
2005 Serafin Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin
Deep colour. Wow – the nose – wow. Dense, super-wide, primary dark fruit (must be a Ponsot!). Dark fruit on the palate too – staining your tongue. Plenty of tannin and a wide panorama on the palate that slowly fades into the finish – it’s a long finish but somehow not quite to the level of the aromatics. There are no fireworks here, rather a concentrated and primary display of understated power.