Full, round and very complex aromas – never a classic wine of Chassagne to me – but super it its own way. Lush and rich yet with excellent acidity and energy. Surely some creamy barrel aspects but the layers of flavour are so compelling. Is there anything missing? Perhaps just a hint of Caillerets minerality; with that, it could have been the best 2008 I tasted at home this year.
Gagnard Jean-Noël
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Santenay Clos des Tavannes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a cool yet welcoming range of fruit aromas, perhaps topped with faint violets. Very good flavour that seems quite wide and, with it, a very good persistence. The balance here is just about perfect (for me), tannins only showing themselves if you chew. Lovely wine. As a direct comparison, and as drinkable as this wine is, it falls short of the intensity of the Montrevenots earlier in the week, by comparison seeming more dilute – that doesn’t mean that I like it any less – the aromas improve all the time and are quite a match for the Beaune.
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Blanchot Dessus
Medium lemon yellow. The nose is clean and gives-up a line of bright, ripe yellow fruit; like the Caillerets accented with faint creamy vanilla – though perhaps with less to hold the attention and saying little to me of Chassagne. Slightly fat texture but with very good acidity bubbling below – it’s certainly richer than the Caillerets but not in a negative sense. I find this tighter than my recollection though there’s a concentrated block of good flavour and intensity in the mid-palate – the flavour lasts long too. Very nice wine indeed but, today at least, it can’t match that precocious Caillerets (of which I think I need more!).
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets
2009 Gagnard Jean-Noël Santenay Clos des Tavannes
1976 Gagnard Jean-Noël Santenay Clos des Tavannes
There is still some strawberry on the nose – this remains clean and fresh with a little sous-bois – lovely. There is still plenty of grainy tannin but without astringency. Good mid-palate flavour with a little blood-orange and hints of chocolate. Really super and apparently with plenty of life ahead of it.
1976 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
(Blanc) While on the subject of 76s – what about a white(?) There are a few hints of oxidation but it must have been the most volatile component as it soon departs from the glass; what’s left is a little lanolin and white chocolate. Full in the mouth yet with nice enough balance – there even appears to be some tannin. Long,with an impression of some licorice. Bravo!
1986 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
(Blanc) Fast-forward ten years. The nose is deeper than than the ’76 – almost woody and a little spicy. In the mouth this is a little softer, but again shows some impression of tannin. Lovely acidity and intensity – it’s a nice acid-leaning, mouth-watering finish which emphasis a flavour of agrumes – captivating.