Hmm, a hint of truffle perhaps caramel too, such a good and fresh width of aroma. Quite direct and fresh but intense and with lovely, melting, flavour over the palate. Long, mineral – ooh a great finish!
Bouchard Père et Fils
1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet
1988 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton
1928 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Avaux
Wide, red fruited and floral – you could think a 1990s wine! Supple, almost liquoreux, long a touch of tannin, almost but not quite touched by astringence. Very long. Just delicious and blind you would say needs a couple more years! The way the tannin still shows, I wonder at what age it first became drinkable! An honour to have tasted twice!
1958 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet
Darker almost Sauternes colur. A nose that grows and grows, eventually becoming smoky, almost marmalade, apricot, some nuts and dried fruit – that’s so special. A line of lavour, starting tight, sowly melting tiny complexities over the palate. Vibrant, complex, superb finishing. Maybe the 1998 is the most impressive finishing of all these Bouchards, but all the same, this is simply great wine. In the context of such a poor vintage, can there be a greater wine?
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château
Gradually there are some higher, floral tones and eventually a few flashes of tobacco too, but mainly this has a deeper register of dark fruit buttressed by equally dark oak. Round, plenty of sweet depth, just a little cushioning, balanced by close to perfect acidity. There’s plenty of flavour here, but I really can’t find the ‘Beaune’, and that’s because such a large part of the flavour profile is the sweetness of dark oak. Despite that oak, this has quite a measure of elegance – this is a lovely wine – but it needs to shed a lot of non-grape derived flavour before it becomes a lovely Beaune.
2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus
Medium, medium-plus colour. Some high, tones, even hints of mint over a red and blueberry fruit with vanilla/coconut accents. Sweet, growing in the mid-palate with creamy, ripe fruit and very good underlying acidity. This is large-scaled and very long finishing, but it’s mainly in the vanilla-coconut register, which I find a shame today. Very easy to drink but in a, perhaps, non-Burgundian way. I’m sure that time will cure all my concerns.
1978 Bouchard Père et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles
Golden. No hint of oxidation on the nose; there is some impact but it’s a little foursquare, hints of lanolin escaping from the glass. In the mouth – now we’re talking – good acidity and a lithe impression of restrained power. Decent length too. Belying its 33 years – this is lovely old white burgundy.
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château
Sealed with the Diam 10. On first opening there is nothing on the nose save oak-spice, the palate has some density and suggestions of fruit but little else. As the wine aerates and warms there is a short period where the oak and fruit come close to aromatic balance, but afterwards the impression is rather diffuse. Likewise the flavours never offer the focus and intensity that I would hope for and indeed expect. It seems disappointing, yet I’m loathed to discount it – I didn’t like either the 2001 or 2006 at this stage/age yet they improved immeasurably with another 3+ years in bottle – but I don’t think oak was the issue with those wines. Still, to drink today I wouldn’t/couldn’t recommend it. Day 2 and the oak is, if anything, more dominant. I have a couple more to see if I’m (yet again) wrong about this wine.