Understated. The nose has some density but remains rather tight. Silky, ever-widening in the mouth – the intensity grows in tandem. Actually it still grows for a while after you swallow. Super, super length.

There is a gorgeous floral backdrop to deep and stony fruit notes. The plate like wise has a depth of stony fruit – an almost rock-like constitution. Return in 20 years (with luck!)

Understated. The nose has some density but remains rather tight. Silky, ever-widening in the mouth – the intensity grows in tandem. Actually it still grows for a while after you swallow. Super, super length.

There is a gorgeous floral backdrop to deep and stony fruit notes. The plate like wise has a depth of stony fruit – an almost rock-like constitution. Return in 20 years (with luck!)

The nose instantly shows that you get what you pay for; a superb extra dimension of fruit, broad but not clumsy, it’s fantastic. In the mouth it’s concentrated, even slightly heavy but never cloying. A super-intense mid-palate and achingly long. Wow. Outrageously boisterous and full-packed, even at 198 francs a bottle you could be forgiven for popping one of these already…