Slightly diffuse aromatics but with a very pretty red fruit that’s holding things together. Ooh, there are grand crus with less drive and concentration in 2017 – what a beauty! Bravo!
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Barthod Ghislaine
2008 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
2008 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
Similar in colour to the villages, but the nose has more depth and dimension – there is an almost jellied quality to the black and red fruit – very lovely – heavier than the villages but not overweight. In the mouth there is likewise more dimension and impact, but there is no fat or padding to distract – such lovely acidity, and tannin that I had no inclination to search for. Nothing in the slightest ‘facile’ about this ‘Charmes; intensity, some minerality and an overall package that captivates. Bravo!
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a depth of really super dark red and black fruit – quite glossy and initially very primary – given time there’s a floral dimension, rather heavy but not to worry, it’s young. Wow; swirl this around in your mouth and there’s a hint of silk but more importantly there’s an intensity that soon rebels – you have to swallow. Okay the acidity is reasonably bright, but the intensity is really about flavour and the depth of that flavour is enough to balance. An impression of tannin remains and a little bitter edge to the long flavour too – eventually the mid-palate takes on an extra dimension of higher-toned, pretty fruit. This really will become one of those sweet and delectable mature wines. Very impressive – you might think was only four or five years of age – not 12; unfortunately that means you should still wait another 4 or 5 years! Super.
2008 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
2007 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées
Medium colour. Deep, interesting, slightly fecund aromas – mmm – then flashes of high-toned fruit and faint spice. Whilst the tannin stands a little to the side, this has the energy and intensity that many 2007s lack. Dark red fruit and some of that dark mineral flavour in the mid-palate and into the finish. Very fine 2007.
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne Rouge
A little deeper, medium ruby-red versus the Leroy, with a nose that is denser but at the same time less pretty – darker fruit that today is less successfully delineated. In the mouth there is also a little more density and certainly an extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. There is more ‘material’ in the glass and more secondary development than the Leroy, this wine had a significant advantage in purchase price too – it’s a really good regional wine – yet I would certainly go for the Leroy in preference today.
2001 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne
Medium colour. A soft red fruit nose with a faint cedar top note, slowly develops more density to the red core and eventually a little redcurrant. Well textured with plenty of forward fruit and again a faint edge of cedar – but at this level it’s additive – I do though find the overall profile slightly jammy. A simple but balanced and quite tasty luncheon bourgogne that never quite gets the pulse increasing.
2002 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne
Just a little darker in colour. The nose goes darker and deeper; a hint riper and no cedar but clearly a few diffuse alcoholic overtones. In the mouth it’s fuller with an edge more tannin and acidity that is slightly tart – it’s not a problem, just it’s personality. On the back of the acidity is a little burst of intensity on the mid-palate before fading into the finish. Less smooth than the 2001 but more material. I look forward to making another comparison in a few years.