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Vintage information 1998:

The reds needed testing before buying; about 25% of them - even from good producers - had excessively drying tannins, more tannin than might be expected to assimilate with age. Those wines were not fun to drink young, they are not fun to drink now, and are unlikely to be much better old.
The rest have pure fruit, density and lots of interest - recent bottles have show quite well. The whites weree mixed - some fantastic Chablis has passed my lips, but wines of the Côte d'Or were more variable.
Jan.2010

1998 Mortet Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.JacquesMay. 2009
Medium-plus colour. Whilst the majority of what the nose offers up, neatly fits the vernacular established by the other wines, there is just an extra edge of oak toast – unique to this vintage – but the wine has eaten it up sufficiently that there is no impression of asyness. I find a lot of carbon dioxide on the palate – initially it’s very hard to judge. Plenty of swirling slowly releases the wine within; on entry the fruit has a nice red edge and a good, dark and spicy length. As the gas fades, so the dimension on the mid-palate becomes ever-more expressive and impressive – really lovely, and I would say better than the 1999!