Medium-plus colour. Floral – roses and violets. Textured, partly the tannin but interestingly so, yet this is quickly forgotten given the gorgeous flavour. Can you (ever) have enough of this wine…(?)

I started writing transparent, but I think I really mean ethereal, flowers and fruit – exquisitely detailed. Density though no apparent weight, this has quite some understatement; just a subtly haunting length…

Much aromatic complexity – warming the glass brings more density of fruit. Full but balanced, supple concentration – another wine of understated but impressive length. Less ‘woody’ than a bottle last September – just lovely, covetable wine.

Fine, precise red fruits, not super depth but with good width. Lots of mid-palate interest and a slowly lingering finish – yum!

Spicier, initially less fruit-driven nose, yet each sniff brings new aromas as the nose widens out, but at the centre is a tight core of fruit that never-quite opens out. Velvetty tannin that’s on a higher level than the other wines, yet very well balanced. Super acidity and really impressive length – it’s a more linear length than the ‘panoramic’ 05 in barrel – but it’s a rather haunting diminuendo.

Blood red fruit. Luxurious mouthfeel with many layers to the fruit – superbly balanced – so much so, that it was hard to pick out specific attributes but the finish lingers with a style that leaves you remembering the wine for some time after.