--- the autumn 2003 burgundy report ---

Hmm, did I mention that I had stopped tinkering with the design? Maybe that was premature! For the reports I've moved to a format that lets you set the width of the page and the text size - that's because I've had a number of requests from people who found the text either too small, or hard to read - or both. I think it an elegant solution, refreshing the page (F5) will bring you back to the standard layout.

Nature intervened in the size of the spring report in the guise of two 3-4 periods of blocked noses and coughing - so I had to cancel some visits - only thing I could taste was my sore throat pastilles! Never mind, I'm sure the domaines will still be around in the summer...

At least in Europe, the 2002's have been a hit, and that's despite (in many cases) price increases to make you wince; in their en-primeur campaigns the merchants have quickly sold out of the 'top wines'. Of course in Europe, we've only seen prices increase 10-25%, those who's sales are denominated in US dollars - unless the merchant did a lot of forward currency buying - will see even higher pricing. I guess the US administration's boost to the export economy will be less of a hit with the followers of 'foreign' wines. It remains to be seen whether the 2002's will quickly find homes - especially as the very different, but very good 2001's will be relative bargains, and in comparison the 2003's will certainly be no bargains...

Just for a short time, maybe it's worth focusing on these prices. Around this time last year many of the (2002) pre-shipment prices in Europe were the same price as for 2001's, and some were 5-10% more - I know, I bought some. Then came the very short 2003 harvest; in some cellars the growers produced only 50% of their normal crop - though you can be sure the less diligent made 'plenty' of wine - then pricing policies changed. It seems likely that prices will go up again this time next year to cover this short-fall - and with some justification - problem is, will the market accept this? and what happens next? The top wines will always sell but Burgundy has built a big following in recent years, no small part due the tremendous run of vintages, but also because of the 'value' the wines offer. Value? - of course! Despite their costly reputation, Burgundies vs Californian Cabernets you never heard of, vs 'classed growth' Bordeaux and any number of 'luxury cuvées', have, for a number of years been 'relative' bargains. For the price of any of the above-mentioned wines you could by a bottle of Musigny or Corton-Charlemagne - a bottle of (easy to find) 'off-vintage' Mouton or Lafite would cost you much more. The problem for 2002's and 2003's will be that the gap - if there still is one - will be much narrower, right now, many markets are soft, and those that do not follow the true way

are already starting to question their expenditure...

And news of the 2003's? All that I can say is that the limited number of reds and whites that I've so-far tasted have been very interesting! The reds are under malo at the moment, but are concentrated, very darkly coloured like the 1993's were and don't seem to offering-up any cooked fruit notes - not at this stage anyway. The whites are full and concentrated, but don't have 'cool-climate' aromatics. Of course it's only been a small sample...